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B is for Brot

rachseelig

To say that Erol isn’t fond of the bread in Toronto would be a massive understatement. In his eyes, it doesn’t even qualify as bread. Real bread is dark, seed-studded, and heavy enough to double as a weapon against intruders.  


Rafi's school at the crack of dawn.
Rafi's school at the crack of dawn.

Our letter of the week is B, and the word is Brot (bread). This morning, we polished off an entire loaf in one go. Our kids devour absurd amounts of toast every morning, and since school and kindergarten start at the crack of dawn, kids don’t pack lunch but rather a mid-morning snack, known either as Pausenbrot (recess snack) or here in southern Germany as Vesperbrot. The latter stems from the Latin vesper, meaning evening—though here, it refers to any between-meal snack, regardless of the hour..


First day of Grade 2 was a success!
First day of Grade 2 was a success!

So, every morning, I slice fruit and make little sandwiches with turkey, cheese, or even—brace yourselves—Nutella! That’s right, the idea of a nut-free school in Germany is, well, nutty. For Rafi, this is nothing short of a dream come true.


As you can tell, our school/kindergarten routine is in full swing. Rafi is in Frau Boller’s Grade 2 class at the Lorettoschule, literally a one-minute walk from our place, and he's already got four days under his belt! Erol and I are amazed at how well he’s doing. He can read some German, follows along in class, and—shockingly—is excited about homework. I suspect his enthusiasm stems from the sheer joy of new gear: we had to buy a ton of school supplies.


Herr Rose gathering school supplies.
Herr Rose gathering school supplies.

Even with my 20+ years of German, the vocabulary threw me. It started with the Schulranzen, which, in contrast to the flimsy Rucksack (backpack) our kids carry at home, is a rigid, ultra-durable school bag designed to last through four years of Grundschule (elementary school). Our generous neighbors lent us one with a soccer motif (score!), but a broken shoulder strap led us to order a new one since Rafi’s slight frame needs all the support it can get.


Next came the teacher’s supply list, which we took to Schreibwaren Rose, a postage-stamp-sized stationery shop that’s been family-run for four generations. Herr Rose seemed gruff at first, but he sprang into action upon seeing THE LIST. With astonishing efficiency, he gathered notebooks, duotangs, pencils of varying thickness, and more, and I watched with wonder as the pile grew higher and higher. Highlights included a Federmappe—not just any pencil case but a multi-compartment wonder with a T-Rex design, complete with moving jaw—and its companion, the Schlampermäppchen (now one of my top five favourite German words), a floppy case intended for messier items like paint brushes (Pinsel) and a tiny sponge (Schwämmchen), though that came with its own adorable container. Mess must be contained at all costs. I couldn’t help but think of my German-Jewish (Yekke) father and grandfather, who would have reveled in the beauty of each utensil and the order in which they were laid out before us.


Leo trying to copy Rafi's homework :)
Leo trying to copy Rafi's homework :)

Rafi’s school ends at 12:15 pm, which means our child-free hours are numbered, at least until we snag a coveted spot in the aftercare program. It also means he hasn’t had much time to make new friends, and the one time I pushed him to join a group of boys on the soccer field was a total disaster. When Rafi missed a cue to switch goals, he was told off by an older kid, i.e. no “sorry” or “excuse me,” and my poor little Canadian snowflake melted into tears. Gotta get back on the horse, I told him, and the next day we biked over to the Merzhausen Soccer Club so that he could do a trial class (Schnuppern is the verb, another new favourite word), and he had a blast. Phew! Today he emerged from school smiling and told me he played soccer with his classmates at recess. Between that and Frau Boller’s once-a-week Pokémon card trading routine, I think he’ll fit in just fine.


Leo’s kindergarten required its own extensive supply list—but of a different nature. Think boots, long underwear, and waterproof pants. Unlike Canada, German kindergarten (Kita for short) is separate from elementary school and entirely optional. But once Schulpflicht (compulsory schooling) kicks in at age six, it’s taken so seriously that parents sneaking off to Mallorca before winter break risk being fined by police at the airport. I’m dead serious.


It's quite the hike to Leo's kindergarten... but the view makes it worthwhile!
It's quite the hike to Leo's kindergarten... but the view makes it worthwhile!

Since kindergarten isn’t mandatory, spots are scarce, especially mid-year. After countless refusals, we finally got into Waldkindergarten Sonnenwiese—meaning Sunny Meadow Forest Kindergarten. It lives up to the name (except that it poured during Leo’s first two days). Forest kindergartens began in Scandinavia in the 1950s and are now hugely popular in Germany, which boasts over 1,500 centers countrywide.


Hütte (hut)
Hütte (hut)

Leo’s Waldkindergarten is about as crunchy as it gets, and significantly more hardcore than we expected. Erol thinks it should actually be called "Sunny Meadow that You Only Reach After Hauling Your Ass Up a Huge Mother-Fucking Hill Kindergarten." The kids, some younger than three, spend the first hour of the day hiking up a mountain – rain, snow, or shine – sometimes with the help of ropes! (If you’re reading this, Ms. Kingstone, I know you would approve!)


At the top, they hang their packs on hooks before entering a cozy wooden hut, where they follow a ritualized snack routine: Vesperbrot is heated up in the wood-burning oven while kids line up to receive a squirt of soap, then rinse and dry their chubby little hands using a shared towel dutifully passed from one kid to the next. While eating, they chatter and share (yes, they’re allowed to share food!) until the sound of a small gong signals a brief moment of silence. And then it’s back outside to do god knows what for the rest of the day!

Kindergarten buddies!
Kindergarten buddies!

Erol witnessed all this firsthand because Arne, the heavily dreadlocked director, informed him on day one that parents are expected to accompany their kids throughout the Eingewöhnungsphase (acclimatization phase), the precise length of which is TBD. In Germany, even the hippies have rules. So, for the foreseeable future, Erol, too, attends forest kindergarten. (Stay tuned for a more detailed post by your fave middle-aged kindie.) He and Leo are out the door before sunrise—leading our little city kid to ask, “Is the forest even open yet?” Once Erol steps back, I think Leo will thrive. His German is minimal, but he’s already building quads of steel!



Our new "station wagon"
Our new "station wagon"

This weekend, we skipped the big excursions and opted to explore the city. Since I’m still wobbly on the cargo bike, Erol played chauffeur while I trailed behind on my own. Our first stop was the Schwabentor, one of the city’s two surviving medieval gates, where we locked up our bikes and found ourselves practically stepping into the Black Forest. Dozens of stunning hiking trails right at our feet. We chose the most tread-upon path up the Schlossberg, a tree-covered hill overlooking the city that has been the site of various fortified structures dating back as early as the 11th century.  

Looking out over the Black Forest.
Looking out over the Black Forest.

After a short trek, we descended back into the heart of the city, which, delightfully, is car-free. We capped off the day with beer and schnitzel at a cozy local pub, sharing a table with two cheeky octogenarian ladies who couldn’t resist flirting with my hubby. He never felt younger! This city keeps surprising us, and there’s still so much left to discover.


Hiking up the Schlossberg, 450 meters above Freiburg's Old Town.
Hiking up the Schlossberg, 450 meters above Freiburg's Old Town.

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2 Comments


Liz
Liz
Jan 13

I am fully reading and I looooove it!

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jessmfarber
Jan 13

Rachel! I'm so thrilled for you guys and for myself to be following along. It's very interesting to read about the vastly different school environments. What a change from Withrow. Can't wait to hear more! Your house looks safe and sound when I pass by on my dog walks. Take care and happy new year!!!

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