Abenteuer means “adventure,” and it’s now Leo’s second-favourite German word (after Gummibär). It’s also the word we used to explain what this sabbatical is all about, and so far, I think we’ve lived up to the promise.
We arrived in Freiburg on Thursday and have already covered a lot of ground—and air (keep reading).
Our home away from home is in a villa that stood vacant and decrepit for 12 years. The owners gutted and transformed it into four rental apartments–ours is the only furnished short-term rental. It’s usually booked for much shorter stays via Airbnb, so it has its quirks—e.g. no toilet paper holders and Ikea knives that barely cut butter—but it’s beautifully maintained and full of character. The boys love their bunk beds and Erol and I are excited about the ensuite toilet... ah, the joys of middle age.
On our first full day, we took the efficient tram (eat your heart out, TTC!) into the city centre to buy winter boots and attempt the bureaucratic feat of registering our address at City Hall. We succeeded with the footwear, thanks to the carousel in the store that kept the boys entertained, but the registration process was a different story. Turns out proving residency in Freiburg requires birth certificates, marriage certificates, and who knows what else—blood type, maybe?
Big development: we now have a cargo bike! This will be Leo’s daily ride to kindergarten (Rafi’s school is just a minute’s walk from our place), and our means to exploring the city. Hild’s Bike World didn’t disappoint. We were all properly fitted for helmets (they actually measured our noggins!), and the staff generously gifted Rafi the scooter he’d breathlessly been test-driving around the entire store.
In case you think our Abenteuer was confined to wheels and pedals, we also took to the skies! The Schauinslandbahn, Germany’s longest cable car, rises to an impressive height of 1,284 meters. Unfortunately, the kids weren’t wearing snow pants, so their gleeful snowball fight had to be cut short, but wow, the scenery was breathtaking, and the hot chocolate was delish. We will definitely be back more than once. It’s only a 10-minute drive from our place.
Yesterday, we hiked up to Hochburg in Staufen, an hour-long climb through vineyards to the ruins of an 11th-century castle. After a picnic at the top, we explored the charming wine town of Staufen, which we’ll have to revisit to experience the Saturday farmer’s market in full swing.
Staufen is believed to have been home to the legendary Dr. Faust, immortalized by Goethe. Nearly every storefront nods to the legend—Faust’s Pharmacy, Faust & Gretchen Housewares, etc.
When Erol explained to the boys how Mephistopheles claimed Faust’s soul per the infamous contract, Leo’s eyes widened, and he asked if it was a true story. Considering he's afraid of the tooth fairy, we promised him it wasn’t. Although, in light of Leo's gazillion cavities, I think the tooth fairy may indeed be out to get him. (Remember what his favourite German word is?) Yup, German dentistry updates to come—aren't you excited?!
This morning we strolled through our beautiful Wiehre neighborhood, which I learned is the envy of many Freiburgers, and uncovered a gem: the Waldpark Wonnhalde. This glorious wooded park contains a beautiful nature centre and wooden sculpture garden that I can only describe as Grimms' fairytale meets Marvel universe (I wish I'd snapped a photo of the sculpture that looked a lot like Groot).
The meditative state we achieved in the forest was entirely undone when we made our way to the Kinder Galaxie, Freiburg’s version of Skyzone. Think trampolines, bouncy castles, bumper cars, and exhausted parents, but with schnitzel and no consent forms. Oh, and I spotted a birthday cake smothered in nuts, something that would undoubtedly cause mass hysteria back home.
The real highlight so far? Well, it may not sound like Abenteuer, but for me, it was meeting our wonderful upstairs neighbors—a warm German-Scottish-Australian family (and we thought we were international!) just back from a year of world travel. The 11-year-old delighted the boys with Pokémon cards and an invitation to an FC Freiburg soccer game, and we’re really hoping Rafi lands in the 8-year-old’s class. They couldn’t be nicer.
Stay tuned to learn about Rafi's and Leo’s first few days at school… which gets me thinking… maybe I should organize this blog around the ABCs of our time here?? Abenteuer clearly belongs at the top of the list. I wonder what B should be...?
Sounds amazing! Sculpture garden looks pretty epic
Thanks for making these delightful travelogues more accessible! ! I feel like I'm in Freiburg along with your gang, All the best for more lovely "abenteuers" - keep those blogs coming!